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When compiling a list of London’s finest eateries, one might expect familiar high-end establishments. However, tucked near the top among these food giants is a modest salonu found in a far-flung part of northern London.

A Unexpected Recognition

This small Turkish spot, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a influential culinary publication. This recognition has left the proprietors utterly surprised.

“I’m totally surprised,” states a owner’s son, referring to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their modest place securing such a prominent spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has kept much of its earlier character. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” notes the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the cuisine, and this establishment definitely delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the savoury mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic called this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a deeper, toastier and more balanced profile.

Surpassing the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place full for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into many times that figure.

A Creed of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not train at elite establishments. “I am very happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this culinary achievement.